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@jerry said:using oversized derailleur cable crimps on brake cables so they're neat and tidy and not those big fuckers flopping arounddouble checking the chain length on factory bikes because they like to toss an extra couple links on there in case the chainrings or cassette are swapped, or the customer is an idiot and big-big's that shit and gets a leaf caught in the drivetrainfabricating little mounts for cables and housing so you can do neat things like shoot the front disc brake housing up the left leg, behind the crown, and out around the front, keeping it from scuffing the paint. same for all housing, keeping it from rubbing shit wrong.trimming stock 440mm+ seatposts when you know the person is only going to use 200mm of itcleaning the excess grease off the exposed end threads of the seatpost bolt(s) so it doesn't attract dirt/dust under the saddletreating bare steel steer tubes so they don't rust under the stem/spacers or inside the headtube.stress relieving machine built wheels, then retruing themscuffing the brake track on rotors and beveling the edges of disc pads so they feel broken in right off the batmaking sure the saddle doesn't flex and bottom out on the head of the seatpost.double checking that the printed guides on road handlebars used to align brake levers are accurate. i reckon that well over half of the ones i've seen are totally wrong.adding protective guides if the front derailleur cable is routed through the frame down at the bb/chainstay junction. lots of exit ports get fucked up since a sharp wire is left to drag across under high tensionhaving a fun "professional mechanic" signature, like how i lube the threads of the top cap bolt with my own bloodgetting the cable routing in the right orientation on 11s shimano front derailleurs. lots of these are done incorrectly.straightening the derailleur hanger right off the bat. replaceable hangers are forged little turds that have bullshit mating surfaces.pulling cranksets apart and greasing chainring bolts right out of the box.replacing the rotten freehub honey that comes in taiwanese/chinese hubs with something nicewrapping the bars like a pro instead of like a blind tennis player. trimming those little extra strips they give you to wrap over the clamp band so they don't stick out all fuckin dumb and bulge out under the hoodtaking hayes disc brakes and putting them in the trash where they belongadding in-line cable adjusters if there aren't provisions for such on the frame, and putting them in a place that's actually reachable while on the bike. also, not backing them out a shit ton during initial installation because you couldn't get the tension right during install and didn't want to find your 4th hand tool. adjusters are useless if they're missing 70% of their travel right off the batremoving these fucking installation clips from downtube adjusters: http://i.imgur.com/RJduBD4.jpgTHERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR THIS AND THAT SHIT HAPPENS ALL THE TIMEtaking the time to measure out the proper geometry of the straddle cable on cantilever brakes that don't use the shimano style ding-dong link or whatever the fuck it's calledknowing how much the owner weighs and what they are using the bike for, and getting the tires to the right pressure, as well as TELLING THEM what that pressure is so they don't have the worst ride ever or blow out their ear drums when they pump those 40c's up to the max printed pressure of 110psithat goes for suspension setup also!replacing the plastic cable guide clips with zip ties. the zip ties should be trimmed such that there isn't a jagged plastic end sticking out, the heads should be rotated so they're all identically snugged up against the housing guides, they should be an appropriate color for the build, and they should be from a brand you have experience with and you know will breakaway before allowing any damage to the housing/tubing/guide/frame, but aren't fragile enough to eject without good reason.taking off any stupid ass manufacturers stickers like the MADE IN TAIWAN shit or the WESTERN BIKEWORKS one, and then getting rid of the adhesive residuemaking sure the rim strip/rim tape is covering up anything that's going to eat a tube or tirepopping crown races off steel forks and checking for excess paint or general fuckery that may need to be faced off. that goes for new forks in general too i guessnot being a dick about weird preference stuff. maybe the owner wants caps on their valves, who cares.admitting to yourself that you don't know what the fuck you're doing if you actually don't know what the fuck you're doing, then sacking up and asking someone else for help instead of just chugging through.
@bschultz said:Using toenail clippers to trim zipties. Best tool you'll ever steal from your mom
@rock_death said:It's my understanding that repair speed is valued over attention to detail in the pro peloton. In my (very limited) experience with pros' bikes I got the idea that they didn't much care how things looked or to a certain extent even functioned
I'd add grinding housing cuts square
@Josh said:HB U23 team mechanic
@S_L_D_ said:Has anyone tried the "soak your chain in molten paraffin" thing?